The information below is mainly the writing of
Evans Javasson, Global Service Corps (GSC) Sustainable Agriculture Trainer,
and Joshua Machinga, B.I.A farmer and organizer trained by John Jeavons of Ecology Action. Joshua runs the B.I.A. training center in Kenya, "Common Ground".
See links at the top right for more information about GSC, Ecology Action, and Common Ground.
Contributions also by William Ritte, G.S.C. Sustainable Agriculture Coordinator, and Daphne Jochnick, G.S.C. Sustainable Agriculture Fellow.
This information may be freely reviewed or abstracted and is copyright-free. It may be reproduced or translated, in part or in whole so long as the sources are acknowledged.
Monday, December 1, 2008
I BIA INTRO
Bio-Intensive Agriculture (BIA) is a kind of organic farming rooted in maintaining soil fertility/ living soil. BIA is called Bio-Intensive because it maintains a natural biological balance between soil, nutrients and plants. It employs crop rotation and intensive planting to maximize harvest levels while protecting the natural soil health and the local environment.
In much of Tanzania, farmers don’t have the money to use pesticides and fertilizers. However in wealthier areas like the Arumeru district, which includes Arusha, farmers use chemicals heavily with few regulations or precautions. Even in areas where farmers don’t use chemicals there is a need for BIA training, as farmers are struggling with nutrient-deficient soil.
Important aspects of BIA include:
Composting
Double-dug, raised beds
Intensive planting
Carbon and calorie farming
The use of open–pollinated seeds
The three core activities are:
1.Composting, to restore nutrients to the soil
2. Double-digging to break up the hard pan several centimeters below the surface, facilitating the flow of air and water and the penetration of roots
3.Companion Planting / Crop Rotation, to provide a mix of plants - encouraging growth, deterring pests and diseases, and conserving soil and space.
The combination of these activities enables plants to access nutrients locked deep in the soil, and conserves soil for future generations.
Double digging has been practiced by at least 2 main groups of people over time; market gardeners of France, and farmer groups in China. The French and Chinese growers worked in areas of high population density with little available land. Both groups developed double digging as a way to maximize their yield from a small area. This intensive method has been revived in the United States recently, notably at the University of California at Santa Cruz and with John Jeavons’ organization, Ecology Action.
BIA brings bigger harvests in smaller amounts of space, with a marginal use of resources. Vegetables are healthier to eat, and the costs of production are less. Money not spent on chemicals can instead be spent on other things; like children’s education.
In addition to compost and double-digging, BIA employs a number of methods known to traditional farmers but neglected in recent years, such as:
Crop rotation: relieves mineral drain on the soil
Companion Planting: discourages pests / improves soil cover
Liquid manure: made as a top dressing
Beneficial plants: lure away or deter pests from crops
Natural pesticide sprays: made of plants, weeds and herbs
Raised beds: allow closer spacing of crops
Water harvesting: retains water during the dry season
Planting leguminous shrubs and trees (Agro-forestry): adds nitrogen to the soil / provides fodder, fuel wood and fence posts
Why should we encourage Bio-Intensive instead of using chemicals?
Chemicals don’t feed the soil, but provide a treatment like “medicine” for the plants or animal so that it can survive in poor soils.
Bio-Intensive farming on the other hand, restores the soil in order to feed the crops and restore their natural disease/pest resistance. Compost multiplies soil’s ability to absorb water, and adds a range of nutrients and microorganisms. Careful transplanting also helps to promote uninterrupted root growth and encourages vigorous, healthy plants. The right amount of water throughout the plants’ growing period also reduces the likelihood of stress.
Dangers of Chemicals:
Chemicals can poison water sources and the soil
Have residual effects that can accumulate in the human bodies causing disease
Are indiscriminant, killing beneficial insects, worms and microorganisms either directly or by their effects on environment
Create waste by leaching or by the formation of insoluble compounds
Are expensive, and use up resources, such as fuel, to make
Can be toxic, especially to children, the elderly and the ill, i.e. HIV+
Require special training so as not to get poisoned or burnt-
instructions in Tanzania are often lost, ignored, or misunderstood
Become less effective over time as insects and disease develop resistance
Give crops overdoses, not exact requirements
Flood vegetables and water supplies with excess nitrate1
It is sometimes claimed that because compost contains a lower percentage of the necessary minerals, phosphorus and potassium, which are often deficient in soil, it is second-rate. This misses the point. BIA techniques are not designed to add minerals; they are adding food for the microbes who will release the minerals needed.
In much of Tanzania, farmers don’t have the money to use pesticides and fertilizers. However in wealthier areas like the Arumeru district, which includes Arusha, farmers use chemicals heavily with few regulations or precautions. Even in areas where farmers don’t use chemicals there is a need for BIA training, as farmers are struggling with nutrient-deficient soil.
Important aspects of BIA include:
Composting
Double-dug, raised beds
Intensive planting
Carbon and calorie farming
The use of open–pollinated seeds
The three core activities are:
1.Composting, to restore nutrients to the soil
2. Double-digging to break up the hard pan several centimeters below the surface, facilitating the flow of air and water and the penetration of roots
3.Companion Planting / Crop Rotation, to provide a mix of plants - encouraging growth, deterring pests and diseases, and conserving soil and space.
The combination of these activities enables plants to access nutrients locked deep in the soil, and conserves soil for future generations.
Double digging has been practiced by at least 2 main groups of people over time; market gardeners of France, and farmer groups in China. The French and Chinese growers worked in areas of high population density with little available land. Both groups developed double digging as a way to maximize their yield from a small area. This intensive method has been revived in the United States recently, notably at the University of California at Santa Cruz and with John Jeavons’ organization, Ecology Action.
BIA brings bigger harvests in smaller amounts of space, with a marginal use of resources. Vegetables are healthier to eat, and the costs of production are less. Money not spent on chemicals can instead be spent on other things; like children’s education.
In addition to compost and double-digging, BIA employs a number of methods known to traditional farmers but neglected in recent years, such as:
Crop rotation: relieves mineral drain on the soil
Companion Planting: discourages pests / improves soil cover
Liquid manure: made as a top dressing
Beneficial plants: lure away or deter pests from crops
Natural pesticide sprays: made of plants, weeds and herbs
Raised beds: allow closer spacing of crops
Water harvesting: retains water during the dry season
Planting leguminous shrubs and trees (Agro-forestry): adds nitrogen to the soil / provides fodder, fuel wood and fence posts
Why should we encourage Bio-Intensive instead of using chemicals?
Chemicals don’t feed the soil, but provide a treatment like “medicine” for the plants or animal so that it can survive in poor soils.
Bio-Intensive farming on the other hand, restores the soil in order to feed the crops and restore their natural disease/pest resistance. Compost multiplies soil’s ability to absorb water, and adds a range of nutrients and microorganisms. Careful transplanting also helps to promote uninterrupted root growth and encourages vigorous, healthy plants. The right amount of water throughout the plants’ growing period also reduces the likelihood of stress.
Dangers of Chemicals:
Chemicals can poison water sources and the soil
Have residual effects that can accumulate in the human bodies causing disease
Are indiscriminant, killing beneficial insects, worms and microorganisms either directly or by their effects on environment
Create waste by leaching or by the formation of insoluble compounds
Are expensive, and use up resources, such as fuel, to make
Can be toxic, especially to children, the elderly and the ill, i.e. HIV+
Require special training so as not to get poisoned or burnt-
instructions in Tanzania are often lost, ignored, or misunderstood
Become less effective over time as insects and disease develop resistance
Give crops overdoses, not exact requirements
Flood vegetables and water supplies with excess nitrate1
It is sometimes claimed that because compost contains a lower percentage of the necessary minerals, phosphorus and potassium, which are often deficient in soil, it is second-rate. This misses the point. BIA techniques are not designed to add minerals; they are adding food for the microbes who will release the minerals needed.
II. GARDEN PLANNING
While our main focus is on growing healthy soil, an additional goal is to make a garden reflect nature’s diversity. Even weeds have a role to play. Beginning gardeners are often inclined to worry about getting rid of insects and weeds. It is much more enjoyable to think of insects and weeds as part of nature’s contribution to a diverse ecosystem. The information and charts of companion planting, crop rotation, beneficials and record keeping in the following chapters help to fully plan a BIA garden while managing pest and disease issues. Here for now are some early considerations in your planning your garden:
Considerations when mapping out your garden:
Size of land available- number of beds, nurseries, and compost piles you can build- beds are ideally 1.5 meters wide. The length is whatever you wish, though 20 meters is ideal for planning harvests - nurseries are ideally 4 by 10 to 20 feet, and compost piles are ideally 1.5 by 1.5 meters
Location and abundance of water supply- a garden close to the water supply is ideal
Shade and sun availability
Shade is useful to protect sun sensitive crops, nurseries, and compost piles, but be careful not to plan near crop-unfriendly trees such as eucalyptus and avocado2
It is easy to forget that tiny seedlings can turn into tall plants. Crops such as corn can be put where they will shade a plant that enjoys less sun, like peas or potatoes or cucumbers. Sun-loving tomatoes can provide a cooler mini-climate for onions or parsley. Cool weather crops, like lettuce, carrots, onions and potatoes will do well in partial shade in warmer weather.
Growing seasons, and which crops grow well in each
PH of your soil, and which crops grow well in it
Animal pests like chickens, goats, monkeys or dogs, to address
Goals of this garden, for example:
Nutrition
Income
Training
-what portion of the garden will you devote for each?
The sustainable BIA garden includes a ratio of compost, calorie, and nutrition crops:
Grain and seed crops, to provide green material for compost
root crops, to provide calorie rich food sources
fruits and vegetables like dark leafy greens, to provide vitamin and mineral rich food sources
Jeavons, in Grow More Vegetables, suggests 60% grain and seed, 30% root, and 10% vitamin rich vegetable crops. Planting a winter compost crop that includes both grains, with their extensive root systems, and legumes, is a way to plan for your compost while feeding yourself and the soil at the same time (legumes, with their nitrogen fixing ability, feed the soil).
Planning a day in your garden:
It’s good, first thing each morning, to get an overview of your garden. Stroll through your garden from end to end; you’ll see your compost supply, nurseries, how are your beds are doing, what plants look under- hydrated, which beds, pathways, or compost piles need weeding, any disease or pest problems, crops ready to harvest, and so forth. Check for garden pests and insects like snails, slugs and grasshoppers. Killing them and dropping them on the garden beds will make a smell to frighten away other pests. Keep a close eye on any new transplants. Some may have died off, and need quick replacement. You may see beds ready for planting, or which need gaps filled in. Once you’ve been through the entire garden you will know what is most urgent, and can map out a plan for the day.
Considerations when mapping out your garden:
Size of land available- number of beds, nurseries, and compost piles you can build- beds are ideally 1.5 meters wide. The length is whatever you wish, though 20 meters is ideal for planning harvests - nurseries are ideally 4 by 10 to 20 feet, and compost piles are ideally 1.5 by 1.5 meters
Location and abundance of water supply- a garden close to the water supply is ideal
Shade and sun availability
Shade is useful to protect sun sensitive crops, nurseries, and compost piles, but be careful not to plan near crop-unfriendly trees such as eucalyptus and avocado2
It is easy to forget that tiny seedlings can turn into tall plants. Crops such as corn can be put where they will shade a plant that enjoys less sun, like peas or potatoes or cucumbers. Sun-loving tomatoes can provide a cooler mini-climate for onions or parsley. Cool weather crops, like lettuce, carrots, onions and potatoes will do well in partial shade in warmer weather.
Growing seasons, and which crops grow well in each
PH of your soil, and which crops grow well in it
Animal pests like chickens, goats, monkeys or dogs, to address
Goals of this garden, for example:
Nutrition
Income
Training
-what portion of the garden will you devote for each?
The sustainable BIA garden includes a ratio of compost, calorie, and nutrition crops:
Grain and seed crops, to provide green material for compost
root crops, to provide calorie rich food sources
fruits and vegetables like dark leafy greens, to provide vitamin and mineral rich food sources
Jeavons, in Grow More Vegetables, suggests 60% grain and seed, 30% root, and 10% vitamin rich vegetable crops. Planting a winter compost crop that includes both grains, with their extensive root systems, and legumes, is a way to plan for your compost while feeding yourself and the soil at the same time (legumes, with their nitrogen fixing ability, feed the soil).
Planning a day in your garden:
It’s good, first thing each morning, to get an overview of your garden. Stroll through your garden from end to end; you’ll see your compost supply, nurseries, how are your beds are doing, what plants look under- hydrated, which beds, pathways, or compost piles need weeding, any disease or pest problems, crops ready to harvest, and so forth. Check for garden pests and insects like snails, slugs and grasshoppers. Killing them and dropping them on the garden beds will make a smell to frighten away other pests. Keep a close eye on any new transplants. Some may have died off, and need quick replacement. You may see beds ready for planting, or which need gaps filled in. Once you’ve been through the entire garden you will know what is most urgent, and can map out a plan for the day.
III. COMPOST
Compost is made of carbon crops/weeds and other materials found naturally on a mixed farm. A sustainable garden grows plenty of carbon crops whose waste (ie. corn stalks) will regenerate into the compost. Some farmers grow a bed of particularly rich crops, just for compost.
Advantages of Compost:
Soil Structure: Bacteria that feed on organic matter temporarily hold the soil together, improving the health and structure of the soil
Water Absorption: Compost holds 6 times its weight in water- the addition of compost to the soil cuts water consumption by as much as 75% per pound of food produced
Soil Health: Improved soil structure increases workability and resistance to erosion
Increases Nutrition of Crops: Organic acids in compost help dissolve minerals in the soil, making mineral nutrients more available to crops - more nutritious soil = more nutritious food
Increases Water and Nutrient Uptake of Roots: Organic acids also increase the permeability of root membranes, increasing the uptake of water and nutrients by roots
Disease and Pest Resistance: Well nourished and hydrated crops naturally resist pests and disease
Free: all materials needed to successfully ‘grow’ compost are readily available on most small farms- compost is reliable and essentially free of cost
Materials for Building Compost:
1.Course materials- sticks, twigs, maize stalks, etc , to lay a foundation and provide drainage
2.Browns - dry grass, leaves, weeds, hay, etc. that have already been breaking down for a while
3.Greens - recently cut weeds, tree leaves, green plant materials, etc.- also kitchen scraps
4.Wood ash
5.Manure or slurry from bio-gas pit. Quality of animal manure, richest to least rich, is as follows: chicken, pig or rabbit, sheep or goat, horse, cattle. Use the best manure you can find, but any type will do
6.Top soil
7.Water
The important thing is to build your compost pile as the materials become available, without worrying too much about the details at the beginning. As you practice making compost and your garden produces more and more material for you to use, you will improve your technique.
The three critical elements in building compost are:
1.Have enough air in the pile
2.Use as many different compost materials as you can
3.Keep the compost moist enough
Materials NOT to add to a Compost Pile:
Plants infected with a disease or a severe insect attack where eggs could be preserved or where the insects themselves could survive in spite of the compost pile's heat
Poisonous plants, such as oleander, hemlock, or castor bean
Plants which have acids that are toxic to other plants and microbial life such as acacia, juniper, and eucalyptus
Plants that may be too acidic (However, special compost piles can be created using acidic materials to raise the pH level in soils that do not have enough acid.)
Invasive weeds such as wild morning glory, couch grass, bermuda grass, and/or black jack - these weeds may not breakdown in the pile and then when you spread the compost on your soil, you may be spreading their seeds as well
Manure from cats and dogs, both of which contain pathogens and are toxic
Building a Compost Pile:
Preparing the land:
1.Select a shady place, not far from the garden and water source
-if no natural shade, build a shelter or cover with mulch, burlap, etc to protect from the sun
2.Measure area- 1.5 by 1.5 meters is ideal - if pile is smaller it won’t generate enough heat to for good decomposition - very big piles take longer to decompose
3.Clear leaves, weeds and other debris until you can see the soil
4.Loosen soil 12 inches deep using a fork or jembe, for water absorption
Building the Pile:
Chop materials into small pieces, to facilitate decomposition
1.Lay course materials 5 -10 cm high
2.Lay browns 5 – 10 cm high.
3.Add green materials and food scraps 5 – 10 cm high.
4.Sprinkle wood ash about 1 – 1 ½ kg
5.Add manure about 2-3 cm high
6.Add top soil 2-3 cm high.
7.Water the pile with 20 liters or more -enough water to dampen, not soak, the pile
-pile should be like a sponge that has been squeezed
8.Repeat steps 1 - 7 until pile reaches a height of 3-5 ft. (1-1.5 meters)
Protecting and Monitoring the Pile:
1.Cover the top of the pile with extra soil to maintain the moisture in the pile. A light layer of straw on top of the soil during the rainy season keeps out excess moisture and prevents the pile from becoming soggy
2.Put a stick of about 2 ½ m in the middle of the pile to act as a thermometer - when the end of the indicator is too hot to touch then the compost is cooking correctly; when it starts to cool the decomposition process has slowed, so this is the right time for turning the pile
3.Water the pile as needed to keep it moist - check the moisture in the middle of the pile from time to time—it is easy to either underwater or over water the pile
4.Once you’ve got your compost pile don’t sit on it - the pile needs to breathe and aerate well, so must be free of compaction
(This picture shows compost building, though it lacks the wood ash and top-soil layers.)
Turning the Pile:
The pile can be turned after two to three weeks. No new material should be added during turning except water or top soil. Turning speeds up decomposition.
The purpose of turning is to ensure even decomposition of a pile. In turning, make sure the top becomes the bottom of the pile and the inside becomes the outside. This is because the decomposition at the bottom and outside goes slower then at the top and inside.
A good tool to use is a pitchfork, since it is lighter than a spading fork and is shaped to allow easy turning of the material. Start by loosening the soil in an area about one half to two thirds the original area (since the pile has shrunk), and add a layer of rough materials at the bottom. Move the materials from the original pile to the new pile, bringing the drier materials to the inside. Add water as you go, if necessary, to be sure that the turned pile is evenly moist.
Storage:
Once the pile you have built has completely broken down, you will be left with compost that looks like loose, dark, rich soil. Now you simply spread a thin layer of it on your crops and everything will be healthier. If not immediately used, cured compost must be stored properly to avoid continued decomposition. Continued decomposition will lead to a pile that is devoid of nutrients.
To Store:
1.Spread the cured compost pile out to about three inches thick; let the pile dry for two days.
2.Bag the dried compost (compost won’t be completely dry) or repile and store in a shaded, protected place. Stored compost will stay for one year.
Using Your Compost:
The best time to put compost in your growing beds is in the spring, just before transplanting the seedlings for the major growing season. As a general rule, you can spread ½ inch of cured compost over the surface of the bed. This comes to approximately six 5-gallon buckets per 100-square-foot bed. Then work it evenly into the top 2 inches of the soil. One application of compost per 4-month growing season is adequate.
Records:
To keep track of your compost piles you can use a simple chart like the following:
COMPOST RECORDS
Pile #
Date Constructed
Date Turned
Date Spread Out
Date Stored
Amount Stored
Advantages of Compost:
Soil Structure: Bacteria that feed on organic matter temporarily hold the soil together, improving the health and structure of the soil
Water Absorption: Compost holds 6 times its weight in water- the addition of compost to the soil cuts water consumption by as much as 75% per pound of food produced
Soil Health: Improved soil structure increases workability and resistance to erosion
Increases Nutrition of Crops: Organic acids in compost help dissolve minerals in the soil, making mineral nutrients more available to crops - more nutritious soil = more nutritious food
Increases Water and Nutrient Uptake of Roots: Organic acids also increase the permeability of root membranes, increasing the uptake of water and nutrients by roots
Disease and Pest Resistance: Well nourished and hydrated crops naturally resist pests and disease
Free: all materials needed to successfully ‘grow’ compost are readily available on most small farms- compost is reliable and essentially free of cost
Materials for Building Compost:
1.Course materials- sticks, twigs, maize stalks, etc , to lay a foundation and provide drainage
2.Browns - dry grass, leaves, weeds, hay, etc. that have already been breaking down for a while
3.Greens - recently cut weeds, tree leaves, green plant materials, etc.- also kitchen scraps
4.Wood ash
5.Manure or slurry from bio-gas pit. Quality of animal manure, richest to least rich, is as follows: chicken, pig or rabbit, sheep or goat, horse, cattle. Use the best manure you can find, but any type will do
6.Top soil
7.Water
The important thing is to build your compost pile as the materials become available, without worrying too much about the details at the beginning. As you practice making compost and your garden produces more and more material for you to use, you will improve your technique.
The three critical elements in building compost are:
1.Have enough air in the pile
2.Use as many different compost materials as you can
3.Keep the compost moist enough
Materials NOT to add to a Compost Pile:
Plants infected with a disease or a severe insect attack where eggs could be preserved or where the insects themselves could survive in spite of the compost pile's heat
Poisonous plants, such as oleander, hemlock, or castor bean
Plants which have acids that are toxic to other plants and microbial life such as acacia, juniper, and eucalyptus
Plants that may be too acidic (However, special compost piles can be created using acidic materials to raise the pH level in soils that do not have enough acid.)
Invasive weeds such as wild morning glory, couch grass, bermuda grass, and/or black jack - these weeds may not breakdown in the pile and then when you spread the compost on your soil, you may be spreading their seeds as well
Manure from cats and dogs, both of which contain pathogens and are toxic
Building a Compost Pile:
Preparing the land:
1.Select a shady place, not far from the garden and water source
-if no natural shade, build a shelter or cover with mulch, burlap, etc to protect from the sun
2.Measure area- 1.5 by 1.5 meters is ideal - if pile is smaller it won’t generate enough heat to for good decomposition - very big piles take longer to decompose
3.Clear leaves, weeds and other debris until you can see the soil
4.Loosen soil 12 inches deep using a fork or jembe, for water absorption
Building the Pile:
Chop materials into small pieces, to facilitate decomposition
1.Lay course materials 5 -10 cm high
2.Lay browns 5 – 10 cm high.
3.Add green materials and food scraps 5 – 10 cm high.
4.Sprinkle wood ash about 1 – 1 ½ kg
5.Add manure about 2-3 cm high
6.Add top soil 2-3 cm high.
7.Water the pile with 20 liters or more -enough water to dampen, not soak, the pile
-pile should be like a sponge that has been squeezed
8.Repeat steps 1 - 7 until pile reaches a height of 3-5 ft. (1-1.5 meters)
Protecting and Monitoring the Pile:
1.Cover the top of the pile with extra soil to maintain the moisture in the pile. A light layer of straw on top of the soil during the rainy season keeps out excess moisture and prevents the pile from becoming soggy
2.Put a stick of about 2 ½ m in the middle of the pile to act as a thermometer - when the end of the indicator is too hot to touch then the compost is cooking correctly; when it starts to cool the decomposition process has slowed, so this is the right time for turning the pile
3.Water the pile as needed to keep it moist - check the moisture in the middle of the pile from time to time—it is easy to either underwater or over water the pile
4.Once you’ve got your compost pile don’t sit on it - the pile needs to breathe and aerate well, so must be free of compaction
(This picture shows compost building, though it lacks the wood ash and top-soil layers.)
Turning the Pile:
The pile can be turned after two to three weeks. No new material should be added during turning except water or top soil. Turning speeds up decomposition.
The purpose of turning is to ensure even decomposition of a pile. In turning, make sure the top becomes the bottom of the pile and the inside becomes the outside. This is because the decomposition at the bottom and outside goes slower then at the top and inside.
A good tool to use is a pitchfork, since it is lighter than a spading fork and is shaped to allow easy turning of the material. Start by loosening the soil in an area about one half to two thirds the original area (since the pile has shrunk), and add a layer of rough materials at the bottom. Move the materials from the original pile to the new pile, bringing the drier materials to the inside. Add water as you go, if necessary, to be sure that the turned pile is evenly moist.
Storage:
Once the pile you have built has completely broken down, you will be left with compost that looks like loose, dark, rich soil. Now you simply spread a thin layer of it on your crops and everything will be healthier. If not immediately used, cured compost must be stored properly to avoid continued decomposition. Continued decomposition will lead to a pile that is devoid of nutrients.
To Store:
1.Spread the cured compost pile out to about three inches thick; let the pile dry for two days.
2.Bag the dried compost (compost won’t be completely dry) or repile and store in a shaded, protected place. Stored compost will stay for one year.
Using Your Compost:
The best time to put compost in your growing beds is in the spring, just before transplanting the seedlings for the major growing season. As a general rule, you can spread ½ inch of cured compost over the surface of the bed. This comes to approximately six 5-gallon buckets per 100-square-foot bed. Then work it evenly into the top 2 inches of the soil. One application of compost per 4-month growing season is adequate.
Records:
To keep track of your compost piles you can use a simple chart like the following:
COMPOST RECORDS
Pile #
Date Constructed
Date Turned
Date Spread Out
Date Stored
Amount Stored
IV. WATERING
- Joshua Machinga
Water is very important for both soil and crops. Water is a cooling agent, carries nutrients in solution in the soil, and keeps plants turgid and erect.
The retention of water in soil depends on:
Soil type
Structure and texture of soil
Climate and air temperature
Humidity and wind characteristics
Plants themselves
BIA’s emphasis on healthy soil should not be overlooked when examining your beds’ capacity to absorb and retain moisture to the benefit of the plants. The deep soil preparation and the addition of good compost allow the soil to hold its moisture longer. Compost has a sponge-like ability to retain water. Other aspects of the Bio-Intensive method further increase water efficiency. Due to the living mulch of Bio-Intensive spacing, evaporation can be reduced by 13%-63%. Since a high level of soil fertility is maintained, transpiration by a plant can be reduced by 10%-75%. We should all know that plants lacking nutrients use more water to try to get the necessary elements.
Water your garden approximately 2 hours before sunset, when water has over half a day to sink down to the root zone before the hot sun appears again. This saves considerable water otherwise lost to evaporation. The water is available and percolates into the soil the whole night, which is critical since plants do a significant amount of their growing at night.
Immature plants and seedlings in flats may have to be watered in the morning and again in the afternoon if there will be sun the whole day. As the living mulch effect develops due to their leaves growing close together, less water will be required.
When watering a new bed, the shiny layer should stay for 2-3 seconds. On older beds it will stay for 5-15 seconds. If the shiny layer disappears sooner, continue watering. If the water is not being absorbed well at all, it may be that the bed is so dry that it is acting like a barrier to the water. Try to wet the soil under the surface to allow water to be absorbed.
It is wise to check the soil moisture before starting to water, to determine at what depth the soil is moist and how much water is needed. A soil can look very dry and be wet just under the surface, or appear damp when it is very dry. Also check how deeply water is going into the soil when you irrigate.
Climate considerations that indicate the amount of watering that will be needed are:
rainfall
amount per day
distribution per day
intensity per hour
temperature- mean monthly and extremes
evaporation rate
Points to remember when watering:
Different stages of a plant’s growth require different amounts of moisture
Being near to the soil surface small seeds dry out easily. Water them well but carefully- too much water or pressure can wash them right off the bed
Carelessness with a watering-can or hose can break stems, damage leaves, remove flowers, and bruise fruits - be gentle
Pay attention to a bed’s corners and edges as they dry out easier
Frequent, light watering encourages roots to grow near the soil surface making them prone to drying out and less capable of surviving drought conditions - it also reduces a plants ability to absorb minerals from deep in the soil
Does a plant wilting mean its time to water? Midday wilting on a hot day is normal for most plants. They lose water through transpiration quicker than their roots can pull it from the soil, and will usually recover overnight - if they are wilting in the morning they should be given water quickly
Salty conditions interfere with a plants ability to absorb water because the mineral competes for available moisture
Be careful of using large amounts of poultry or feedlot manure. Both of these are mixed with urine which has a high salt content. Certain crops are more tolerant of salty conditions. These are beets, spinach, lettuce, broccoli, and tomatoes. The salt sensitive crops are beans, carrots, onions and radishes
Potassium affects the rate of a plant’s water retention by regulating the opening and closing of its stomata. Thus the availability of this major nutrient determines how rapidly photosynthesis takes place
Fruiting crops and crops in the tomato family, ie. tomatoes and eggplant, dislike overhead watering. For this same reason they are bad crops for rainy season - they need their soil, but not their leaves and fruit, to be watered
Letting your spray of water travel high through the air before hitting the crops oxygenates the water, to the benefit of your plants
Under- and Over-watering:
Under-watering:
Slows down photosynthesis, reducing amount of food manufactured by a plant
Harmful wilting
Prevents adequate transport of nutrients
Over-watering:
Compacts soil / can suffocate roots
Creates environment for damping off
Prevents proper transport of nutrients, interfering with plant growth
Leaches nutrients from soil
Both under-watering and over-watering weaken plants by making them more vulnerable to insect infestation, and less resistant to disease and harsh environmental conditions.
TERMS USED:
Soil Pore space: portion occupied by air and water. In sandy soil pore spaces are large, and in clay soils pore spaces are numerous and smaller.
Soil Texture: different sized particles a soil has in it. There are stones, gravel, sand, and silt and clay particles. The water holding capacity of a soil depends largely on its texture –the amount of sand, silt and clay in the soil.
Soil Structure: grouping together of the particles in a soil into larger pieces or granules. The structure has a large influence on the retention and release of water.
The addition of organic matter to your soil will significantly improve its water holding and drainage capacity; compost is the best material for this.
Capillary water: water held in between soil particles.
Gravity water: percolates through soil under the force of gravity.
Infiltration: rate at which water moves into the soil, measured in millimeters per hour.
Field Capacity: moisture holding capacity of the soil after gravity water has been removed. Water added beyond field capacity will not be held in the soil’s pore spaces. The field capacity of light soils is les than that of heavy soils. Light soils need much light irrigation, and heavy soils can take fewer, heavier waterings.
Permanent Wilting Point: level of moisture at which plants are not able to extract any more water and from which they do not recover but wilt and die. Structure, texture and organic material affect the permanent wilting point.
Plant Root Zones: (deep rooted or shallow rooted plants) determine the frequency and the amount of watering required. Deep rooted plants need heavy, infrequent watering. Shallow rooted plants want light, shallow watering frequently. Plants make most use of water from the upper area of their root zones.
Evaporation is high in initial plant growth. As the plant matures its larger leaves shade the soil. Transpiration is a larger factor of water loss than evaporation.
The Hydrologic Cycle: movement of water from the earth’s surface and back.
Water is very important for both soil and crops. Water is a cooling agent, carries nutrients in solution in the soil, and keeps plants turgid and erect.
The retention of water in soil depends on:
Soil type
Structure and texture of soil
Climate and air temperature
Humidity and wind characteristics
Plants themselves
BIA’s emphasis on healthy soil should not be overlooked when examining your beds’ capacity to absorb and retain moisture to the benefit of the plants. The deep soil preparation and the addition of good compost allow the soil to hold its moisture longer. Compost has a sponge-like ability to retain water. Other aspects of the Bio-Intensive method further increase water efficiency. Due to the living mulch of Bio-Intensive spacing, evaporation can be reduced by 13%-63%. Since a high level of soil fertility is maintained, transpiration by a plant can be reduced by 10%-75%. We should all know that plants lacking nutrients use more water to try to get the necessary elements.
Water your garden approximately 2 hours before sunset, when water has over half a day to sink down to the root zone before the hot sun appears again. This saves considerable water otherwise lost to evaporation. The water is available and percolates into the soil the whole night, which is critical since plants do a significant amount of their growing at night.
Immature plants and seedlings in flats may have to be watered in the morning and again in the afternoon if there will be sun the whole day. As the living mulch effect develops due to their leaves growing close together, less water will be required.
When watering a new bed, the shiny layer should stay for 2-3 seconds. On older beds it will stay for 5-15 seconds. If the shiny layer disappears sooner, continue watering. If the water is not being absorbed well at all, it may be that the bed is so dry that it is acting like a barrier to the water. Try to wet the soil under the surface to allow water to be absorbed.
It is wise to check the soil moisture before starting to water, to determine at what depth the soil is moist and how much water is needed. A soil can look very dry and be wet just under the surface, or appear damp when it is very dry. Also check how deeply water is going into the soil when you irrigate.
Climate considerations that indicate the amount of watering that will be needed are:
rainfall
amount per day
distribution per day
intensity per hour
temperature- mean monthly and extremes
evaporation rate
Points to remember when watering:
Different stages of a plant’s growth require different amounts of moisture
Being near to the soil surface small seeds dry out easily. Water them well but carefully- too much water or pressure can wash them right off the bed
Carelessness with a watering-can or hose can break stems, damage leaves, remove flowers, and bruise fruits - be gentle
Pay attention to a bed’s corners and edges as they dry out easier
Frequent, light watering encourages roots to grow near the soil surface making them prone to drying out and less capable of surviving drought conditions - it also reduces a plants ability to absorb minerals from deep in the soil
Does a plant wilting mean its time to water? Midday wilting on a hot day is normal for most plants. They lose water through transpiration quicker than their roots can pull it from the soil, and will usually recover overnight - if they are wilting in the morning they should be given water quickly
Salty conditions interfere with a plants ability to absorb water because the mineral competes for available moisture
Be careful of using large amounts of poultry or feedlot manure. Both of these are mixed with urine which has a high salt content. Certain crops are more tolerant of salty conditions. These are beets, spinach, lettuce, broccoli, and tomatoes. The salt sensitive crops are beans, carrots, onions and radishes
Potassium affects the rate of a plant’s water retention by regulating the opening and closing of its stomata. Thus the availability of this major nutrient determines how rapidly photosynthesis takes place
Fruiting crops and crops in the tomato family, ie. tomatoes and eggplant, dislike overhead watering. For this same reason they are bad crops for rainy season - they need their soil, but not their leaves and fruit, to be watered
Letting your spray of water travel high through the air before hitting the crops oxygenates the water, to the benefit of your plants
Under- and Over-watering:
Under-watering:
Slows down photosynthesis, reducing amount of food manufactured by a plant
Harmful wilting
Prevents adequate transport of nutrients
Over-watering:
Compacts soil / can suffocate roots
Creates environment for damping off
Prevents proper transport of nutrients, interfering with plant growth
Leaches nutrients from soil
Both under-watering and over-watering weaken plants by making them more vulnerable to insect infestation, and less resistant to disease and harsh environmental conditions.
TERMS USED:
Soil Pore space: portion occupied by air and water. In sandy soil pore spaces are large, and in clay soils pore spaces are numerous and smaller.
Soil Texture: different sized particles a soil has in it. There are stones, gravel, sand, and silt and clay particles. The water holding capacity of a soil depends largely on its texture –the amount of sand, silt and clay in the soil.
Soil Structure: grouping together of the particles in a soil into larger pieces or granules. The structure has a large influence on the retention and release of water.
The addition of organic matter to your soil will significantly improve its water holding and drainage capacity; compost is the best material for this.
Capillary water: water held in between soil particles.
Gravity water: percolates through soil under the force of gravity.
Infiltration: rate at which water moves into the soil, measured in millimeters per hour.
Field Capacity: moisture holding capacity of the soil after gravity water has been removed. Water added beyond field capacity will not be held in the soil’s pore spaces. The field capacity of light soils is les than that of heavy soils. Light soils need much light irrigation, and heavy soils can take fewer, heavier waterings.
Permanent Wilting Point: level of moisture at which plants are not able to extract any more water and from which they do not recover but wilt and die. Structure, texture and organic material affect the permanent wilting point.
Plant Root Zones: (deep rooted or shallow rooted plants) determine the frequency and the amount of watering required. Deep rooted plants need heavy, infrequent watering. Shallow rooted plants want light, shallow watering frequently. Plants make most use of water from the upper area of their root zones.
Evaporation is high in initial plant growth. As the plant matures its larger leaves shade the soil. Transpiration is a larger factor of water loss than evaporation.
The Hydrologic Cycle: movement of water from the earth’s surface and back.
V. COMPANION PLANTING, CROP ROTATION, AND BENEFICIALS
Companion planting, crop rotation, and the use of beneficials are ways in which you can plant crops to naturally deter pests and disease, conserve soil and space, and maintain long-term soil health. With this information you can plan out your garden.
COMPANION PLANTING:
As in human relationships plants have the habit of liking and disliking each other. For plants, this is due to their root excretions, scents, and flowers. The four main benefits of companion planting are:
1.Stronger plants
2.Insect deterrence
3.Soil conservation
4.Space conservation
Stronger Plants and Insect Deterrence:
Each plant releases different chemicals into the soil, which can either encourage or discourage the growth of particular other plants. Plants whose chemicals encourage each other’s growth are called ‘companion plants’. Plants whose chemicals discourage each other’s growth are antagonists. This is why it is important to plant vegetables next to one another that will help both to grow stronger. As the plants are strengthened they are less susceptible to pest and disease.
Insects can more easily attack a field of one type of crop than one that has many different types. Therefore, variety in each bed is a type of natural protection. Crop variation is important because your crops will be less susceptible to large disastrous invasions by a pest.
A List of Common Vegetables, Their Companions and Antagonists:
Asparagus
Companions: Tomatoes, Parsley, Basil
Beans
Companions: Almost all vegetables
Antagonists: Onions, Garlic
Beets
Companions: Onions
Antagonists: Some Beans
Cabbage Family(Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale, African Nightshade, Broccoli)
Companions: Aromatic herbs, Potatoes, Dill, Sage, Mint, Rosemary,Beets, Onions
Antagonists: Strawberries, Tomatoes, some Beans
Carrots
Companions: Peas, Lettuce, Chives,Onions, Leeks, Rosemary,Sage, Tomatoes
Antagonists: Dill
Chives
Companions: Carrots
Antagonists: Peas, Beans
Corn
Companions: Potatoes, Peas, Beans, Pumpkin
Antagonists: Cauliflower, Cabbage
Cucumbers
Companions: Beans, Corn, Peas, Radishes, Sunflowers
Antagonists: Potatoes, aromatic herbs
Eggplant
Companions: Beans
Leeks
Companions: Onions, Carrots
Lettuce
Companions: Carrots (very good with Lettuce and Radishes), Strawberries, Cucumbers
Onions (and garlic)
Companions: Beets, Strawberries, Tomatoes,Lettuce, Parsley
Antagonists: Peas, Beans
Parsley
Companions: Tomatoes, Asparagus
Peas
Companions: Most vegetables
Antagonists: Onions, Garlic, Potatoes
Potatoes
Companions: Beans, Corn, Cabbage, Horseradish, Marigolds, Eggplant
Antagonists: Pumpkins, Squash,Cucumbers, Sunflowers, Tomatoes,
Pumpkins
Companions: Corn
Antagonists: Potatoes
Radishes
Companions: Peas, Nasturtiums, Lettuce, Cucumbers
Soybeans
Companions: Grows with anything
Spinach
Companions: Strawberries
Squash
Companions: Nasturtiums, Corn
Strawberries
Companions: Beans, Spinach, Lettuce Cabbage
Tomatoes
Companions: Chives, Onions, Parsley, Asparagus, Marigolds, Nasturtiums, Carrots
Antagonists: Potatoes, Fennel,Cabbage
Soil Conservation:
Soil conservation is achieved by what we call ‘living mulch’. The companion plants grow so close together as to create the protective qualities that mulching can provide.
1.Since the plants are placed as close to one another as possible without interfering with each other’s growth, the soil structure will be stronger and therefore more resistant to erosion
2.As your plants grow larger they will block potentially harmful rains from eroding the top layer of soil
3.Your soil will retain more water because it will be shaded more by the leaves and will not dry out as much. Because the soil stays moist it is better able to receive water without having run-off
4.Weeds will have less area to grow, and it will be more difficult for them to grow with a lack of sunlight
It is important to realize that the plants will not be able to serve this function in the early stages of growth. So, organic mulch can be used to temporarily serve the same purpose as what the living mulch will eventually be able to do. Things that can be used for mulch are any natural browns, examples are: dried leaves dried banana leaves, hay, corn husks, etc. Once the plants do become big enough to work as living mulch, the two types of mulch can work together to achieve maximum health.
Space Conservation:
Rather than planting vegetables in rows, we plant so that each plant is the same distance from the next in the diagonal offset pattern shown below. When this is done more plants can be grown than by planting in rows.
Figure 1: Hexagonal spacing-Leaf lettuce is spaced on 8'' centers
Common Plants, HF, LF, HG, and Plant Spacing:
Heavy Feaders:
African Eggplant 60cm
Amaranth (for greens) 15cm
Asparagus 30 cm
Basil 15cm
Broccoli 35cm
Chin. Cabbage 25cm
Cabbage 35cm
Comfrey, Russian 30cm
Cauliflower 35cm
Swiss Chard 20cm
Collards 28cm
Corn 40cm
Cucumbers 25cm
Eggplant 44cm
Kale 35cm
Lettuce, Head 30cm
Lettuce , Leaf 22cm
Mustard 15cm
Nightshade 20cm
Okra 15cm
Parsley 10cm
Peppers, Hot 30cm
Peppers, Sweet 30cm
Pumpkin 50cm
Shallots 10cm
Spinach 15cm
Strawberries 30cm
Swiss Chard 20cm
Sunflower 45cm
Tomatoes 40cm
Tomatoes, Cherry 40cm
Watermelon 50cm
Zucchini 45cm
Light Feeders:
Turnips 10cm
Beets 10cm
Garlic 10cm
Horseradish 28cm
Carrots 7cm
Leeks 15cm
Onions 10cm
Potato, Irish 22cm (15cm depth)
Potato, Sweet 22cm (15cm depth)
Radishes 5cm
Heavy Givers:
Peas 10cm
Beans 17cm
Soybeans 15cm
CROP ROTATION
For a number of reasons, it is good to vary the crops you plant in a plot season to season. Different plants take different nutrients and different quantities of nutrients out of the soil. Planting the same crop on the same land in succession creates soil nutrient deficiencies and also encourages insect and disease problems. The two main benefits of crop rotation are:
1.Preservation of nutrients in the soil
2.Insect deterrence
Nutrient Preservation in the Soil:
Different plants interact in different ways with the nutrients in the soil. Some take a small amount of nutrients and are called Light Feeders (LF); some take a large amount of nutrients from the soil and these are called Heavy Feeders (HF), and some plants give nutrients back to soil and they are called Heavy Givers (HG). One can’t expect to have healthy soil over time if a Heavy Feeder is planted year after year into the same soil. Crops need to be rotated so that the soil doesn’t become depleted of nutrients. Every one or two seasons the crops that you have been planting in one area should be changed. (Refer to the charts on the following pages that label each plant as LF, HF, or HG). Light feeders can follow both heavy feeders and heavy givers, but never plant two heavy feeders or two heavy givers in two consecutive seasons.
1.Heavy Feeders: These take large amounts of nutrients, especially nitrogen, from the soil
2.Heavy Givers: These bring large amounts of nitrogen into the soil and excrete substances, which help eradicate wilt-causing organisms
3.Light Feeders: These take small amounts of nutrients from the soil
Insect Deterrence:
Crop rotation alternates crops from one season to the next in a given field. This takes advantage of the fact that most pests are limited to feeding on one kind of crop. When the crop changes, the pests lose their host, and do not survive. This is why normally the same vegetable should not be put in the same bed each season -this invites diseases. Crop rotation is a natural way to break the pests’ feeding cycle.
List of common vegetables organized according to crop rotation and companion planting guidelines:
HEAVY GIVERS:
Beans Companions: Potatoes, Carrots, Cucumbers, Cabbage Antagonists: Onions
Bush beans Companions: Potatoes, Cucumbers, Maize, Lettuce, Tomatoes Antagonists: Onions
Peas Companions: Carrots, Cucumbers, Beans, Maize Antagonists: Onions, Potatoes
Soybeans Companions: Grows with anything and helps with anything
HEAVY FEEDERS: Companions Antagonists
Cabbage family Companions: Aromatic Plants, Potatoes, Tomatoes, Dill, Rosemary
Maize Companions: Potatoes, Peas, Beans,
Cucumbers, Pumpkins
Potatoes Companions: Beans, Maize, Cabbage, Marigolds Antagonists: Pumpkins, Cucumbers, Sunflowers
Pumpkins Companions: Maize Antagonists: Potatoes
Tomatoes Companions: Chives, Onions, Carrots,Marigolds Antagonists: Potatoes, Fennel, Cabbage
LIGHT FEEDERS:
Carrots Companions: Peas, Lettuce, Chives,Onions, Leeks, Rosemary,Tomatoes Antagonists: Dill
Chives Companions: Carrots Antagonists: Peas, Beans
Cucumbers Companions: Sunflowers, Beans, Corn, Peas, Antagonists: Potatoes,Aromatic Herbs
Leeks Companions: Onions, Carrots
Lettuce Companions: Carrots, Cucumbers
Onions Companions: Beets, Tomatoes, Lettuce Antagonists: Peas, Beans
PLANT FAMILIES
It is helpful if you understand Heavy Feeders, Light Feeders, and Heavy Givers according to the ‘plant families’. Check how the plant families below fit into the HF, LF, and HG charts above.
1.SOLANUMS
a.Tomatoes
b.Egg plants
c.Irish potatoes
d.Peppers
e.Solanum nigrum
2.LEGUMES
a.Common peas
b.Peas
c.Ground nuts
d.Green and black grams
e.Cowpeas
f.Soya beans
g.Lab beans
h.Winged beans
i.Other lesser beans
3.GRAMINACEA
a.Maize
b.Sorghum
c.Sugar cane
d.Rice
e.Oats
f.Finger millet
g.Bulrush millet
h.Wheat
i.Barley
4.CHENOPODIUM
a.Spinach (S. Oleracea)
b.Beets (Beta Vulgaris)
c.Swiss chard
5.ALLIUMS
a.Onion (spring, bunch, bulbs)
b.Leeks
c.Garlic
d.Chives
6.UMBELLIFERAE (UMBELS OR PARSELY FAMILY)
a.Carrots
b.Several herbs
1.Coriander-coriandum sativum
2.Parseley-petroselinum srispum
3.Caraway-carum
4.Pimpinella-anise anisum
5.Foeniculum-fennel vulgare
6.Anetum graveoleus-dill
7.CUCURBITS
a.Cucurbita-Pumpkin, Squash, Gourds
b.Cucumis melo-Musk melon, Melous, Cantaloupe, Cucumbers and Water melons
Chayote (Sechilim edule)
BENEFICIALS:
The following are herbs and flowers that can be included into your garden to deter insects and strengthen soil. Some deter pests, while others attract helpful insects, or lure birds and pests away from the crops. Bees and butterflies play an important part in the life cycle of plants, so a garden will benefit if it includes their favorite meals. Bees love blue flowers, especially borage and rosemary. Butterflies are attracted to purple, red, yellow, and orange flowers and will beautify our garden as well.
Other beneficial insects are attracted to the flowers of parsley, dill and cilantro/coriander. Try letting a few of those plants go to seed to serve as feeding stations for helpful insects. The perennials are best planted at the end of the beds where they will not get in the way of double digging. Another good idea is to plant beneficials like lemon grass and marigolds around the borders of your garden.
Benefits of Beneficials:
Beneficials are usually flowers or herbs that give you a natural way to make your plants more resistant to insects and to make your garden look nice at the same time
Some beneficials attract “good” insects that eat the “bad” ones: predator vs. prey. Instead of killing all the insects with pesticides, these beneficials allow good insects to help your plants
Some beneficials attract insects to themselves, luring the potential pests away from crops
Finally, some beneficials deter pests away from the garden altogether
Common Beneficials:
Basil Companion to tomatoes dislikes rue intensely - improves growth and flavor. Repels flies and mosquitoes
Chives Companion to carrots; improves growth and flavor
Dill Companion to cabbage; dislikes carrots; improves growth and health of cabbage
Fennel Plant away from gardens - most plants dislike it
Garlic Deters beetles and birds
Hyssop Deters cabbage moth; companion to cabbage
Marigolds The workhorse of the pest deterrents - plant throughout garden - discourages many insects including beetles and nematodes
Mint Companion to cabbage, and tomatoes; improves health and flavor; deters white cabbage moth
Nasturtium Companion to radishes and cabbage - plant under fruit trees - deters aphids, squash bugs, stripped pumpkin beetle. Improves growth and flavor
Petunia Protects beans
Horseradish Plant at corners of potato patch to deter potato bug
Calendula Companion to tomatoes, but plant elsewhere in the garden too - deters asparagus beetle, tomato worm, and general garden pests
Rosemary Companion to tomatoes, cabbage, beans, carrots, and sage, but plant elsewhere in garden too - deters cabbage moth, bean beetles, asparagus beetles, and carrot fly
Sage Plant with rosemary, cabbage, and carrots; keep away from cucumbers deters cabbage moth, carrot fly
Tarragon Good throughout garden
Morning Glory Allow to grow in corn - mosquito repellant
Thyme: Plant here and there in the garden - deters cabbage worms
COMPANION PLANTING:
As in human relationships plants have the habit of liking and disliking each other. For plants, this is due to their root excretions, scents, and flowers. The four main benefits of companion planting are:
1.Stronger plants
2.Insect deterrence
3.Soil conservation
4.Space conservation
Stronger Plants and Insect Deterrence:
Each plant releases different chemicals into the soil, which can either encourage or discourage the growth of particular other plants. Plants whose chemicals encourage each other’s growth are called ‘companion plants’. Plants whose chemicals discourage each other’s growth are antagonists. This is why it is important to plant vegetables next to one another that will help both to grow stronger. As the plants are strengthened they are less susceptible to pest and disease.
Insects can more easily attack a field of one type of crop than one that has many different types. Therefore, variety in each bed is a type of natural protection. Crop variation is important because your crops will be less susceptible to large disastrous invasions by a pest.
A List of Common Vegetables, Their Companions and Antagonists:
Asparagus
Companions: Tomatoes, Parsley, Basil
Beans
Companions: Almost all vegetables
Antagonists: Onions, Garlic
Beets
Companions: Onions
Antagonists: Some Beans
Cabbage Family(Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale, African Nightshade, Broccoli)
Companions: Aromatic herbs, Potatoes, Dill, Sage, Mint, Rosemary,Beets, Onions
Antagonists: Strawberries, Tomatoes, some Beans
Carrots
Companions: Peas, Lettuce, Chives,Onions, Leeks, Rosemary,Sage, Tomatoes
Antagonists: Dill
Chives
Companions: Carrots
Antagonists: Peas, Beans
Corn
Companions: Potatoes, Peas, Beans, Pumpkin
Antagonists: Cauliflower, Cabbage
Cucumbers
Companions: Beans, Corn, Peas, Radishes, Sunflowers
Antagonists: Potatoes, aromatic herbs
Eggplant
Companions: Beans
Leeks
Companions: Onions, Carrots
Lettuce
Companions: Carrots (very good with Lettuce and Radishes), Strawberries, Cucumbers
Onions (and garlic)
Companions: Beets, Strawberries, Tomatoes,Lettuce, Parsley
Antagonists: Peas, Beans
Parsley
Companions: Tomatoes, Asparagus
Peas
Companions: Most vegetables
Antagonists: Onions, Garlic, Potatoes
Potatoes
Companions: Beans, Corn, Cabbage, Horseradish, Marigolds, Eggplant
Antagonists: Pumpkins, Squash,Cucumbers, Sunflowers, Tomatoes,
Pumpkins
Companions: Corn
Antagonists: Potatoes
Radishes
Companions: Peas, Nasturtiums, Lettuce, Cucumbers
Soybeans
Companions: Grows with anything
Spinach
Companions: Strawberries
Squash
Companions: Nasturtiums, Corn
Strawberries
Companions: Beans, Spinach, Lettuce Cabbage
Tomatoes
Companions: Chives, Onions, Parsley, Asparagus, Marigolds, Nasturtiums, Carrots
Antagonists: Potatoes, Fennel,Cabbage
Soil Conservation:
Soil conservation is achieved by what we call ‘living mulch’. The companion plants grow so close together as to create the protective qualities that mulching can provide.
1.Since the plants are placed as close to one another as possible without interfering with each other’s growth, the soil structure will be stronger and therefore more resistant to erosion
2.As your plants grow larger they will block potentially harmful rains from eroding the top layer of soil
3.Your soil will retain more water because it will be shaded more by the leaves and will not dry out as much. Because the soil stays moist it is better able to receive water without having run-off
4.Weeds will have less area to grow, and it will be more difficult for them to grow with a lack of sunlight
It is important to realize that the plants will not be able to serve this function in the early stages of growth. So, organic mulch can be used to temporarily serve the same purpose as what the living mulch will eventually be able to do. Things that can be used for mulch are any natural browns, examples are: dried leaves dried banana leaves, hay, corn husks, etc. Once the plants do become big enough to work as living mulch, the two types of mulch can work together to achieve maximum health.
Space Conservation:
Rather than planting vegetables in rows, we plant so that each plant is the same distance from the next in the diagonal offset pattern shown below. When this is done more plants can be grown than by planting in rows.
Figure 1: Hexagonal spacing-Leaf lettuce is spaced on 8'' centers
Common Plants, HF, LF, HG, and Plant Spacing:
Heavy Feaders:
African Eggplant 60cm
Amaranth (for greens) 15cm
Asparagus 30 cm
Basil 15cm
Broccoli 35cm
Chin. Cabbage 25cm
Cabbage 35cm
Comfrey, Russian 30cm
Cauliflower 35cm
Swiss Chard 20cm
Collards 28cm
Corn 40cm
Cucumbers 25cm
Eggplant 44cm
Kale 35cm
Lettuce, Head 30cm
Lettuce , Leaf 22cm
Mustard 15cm
Nightshade 20cm
Okra 15cm
Parsley 10cm
Peppers, Hot 30cm
Peppers, Sweet 30cm
Pumpkin 50cm
Shallots 10cm
Spinach 15cm
Strawberries 30cm
Swiss Chard 20cm
Sunflower 45cm
Tomatoes 40cm
Tomatoes, Cherry 40cm
Watermelon 50cm
Zucchini 45cm
Light Feeders:
Turnips 10cm
Beets 10cm
Garlic 10cm
Horseradish 28cm
Carrots 7cm
Leeks 15cm
Onions 10cm
Potato, Irish 22cm (15cm depth)
Potato, Sweet 22cm (15cm depth)
Radishes 5cm
Heavy Givers:
Peas 10cm
Beans 17cm
Soybeans 15cm
CROP ROTATION
For a number of reasons, it is good to vary the crops you plant in a plot season to season. Different plants take different nutrients and different quantities of nutrients out of the soil. Planting the same crop on the same land in succession creates soil nutrient deficiencies and also encourages insect and disease problems. The two main benefits of crop rotation are:
1.Preservation of nutrients in the soil
2.Insect deterrence
Nutrient Preservation in the Soil:
Different plants interact in different ways with the nutrients in the soil. Some take a small amount of nutrients and are called Light Feeders (LF); some take a large amount of nutrients from the soil and these are called Heavy Feeders (HF), and some plants give nutrients back to soil and they are called Heavy Givers (HG). One can’t expect to have healthy soil over time if a Heavy Feeder is planted year after year into the same soil. Crops need to be rotated so that the soil doesn’t become depleted of nutrients. Every one or two seasons the crops that you have been planting in one area should be changed. (Refer to the charts on the following pages that label each plant as LF, HF, or HG). Light feeders can follow both heavy feeders and heavy givers, but never plant two heavy feeders or two heavy givers in two consecutive seasons.
1.Heavy Feeders: These take large amounts of nutrients, especially nitrogen, from the soil
2.Heavy Givers: These bring large amounts of nitrogen into the soil and excrete substances, which help eradicate wilt-causing organisms
3.Light Feeders: These take small amounts of nutrients from the soil
Insect Deterrence:
Crop rotation alternates crops from one season to the next in a given field. This takes advantage of the fact that most pests are limited to feeding on one kind of crop. When the crop changes, the pests lose their host, and do not survive. This is why normally the same vegetable should not be put in the same bed each season -this invites diseases. Crop rotation is a natural way to break the pests’ feeding cycle.
List of common vegetables organized according to crop rotation and companion planting guidelines:
HEAVY GIVERS:
Beans Companions: Potatoes, Carrots, Cucumbers, Cabbage Antagonists: Onions
Bush beans Companions: Potatoes, Cucumbers, Maize, Lettuce, Tomatoes Antagonists: Onions
Peas Companions: Carrots, Cucumbers, Beans, Maize Antagonists: Onions, Potatoes
Soybeans Companions: Grows with anything and helps with anything
HEAVY FEEDERS: Companions Antagonists
Cabbage family Companions: Aromatic Plants, Potatoes, Tomatoes, Dill, Rosemary
Maize Companions: Potatoes, Peas, Beans,
Cucumbers, Pumpkins
Potatoes Companions: Beans, Maize, Cabbage, Marigolds Antagonists: Pumpkins, Cucumbers, Sunflowers
Pumpkins Companions: Maize Antagonists: Potatoes
Tomatoes Companions: Chives, Onions, Carrots,Marigolds Antagonists: Potatoes, Fennel, Cabbage
LIGHT FEEDERS:
Carrots Companions: Peas, Lettuce, Chives,Onions, Leeks, Rosemary,Tomatoes Antagonists: Dill
Chives Companions: Carrots Antagonists: Peas, Beans
Cucumbers Companions: Sunflowers, Beans, Corn, Peas, Antagonists: Potatoes,Aromatic Herbs
Leeks Companions: Onions, Carrots
Lettuce Companions: Carrots, Cucumbers
Onions Companions: Beets, Tomatoes, Lettuce Antagonists: Peas, Beans
PLANT FAMILIES
It is helpful if you understand Heavy Feeders, Light Feeders, and Heavy Givers according to the ‘plant families’. Check how the plant families below fit into the HF, LF, and HG charts above.
1.SOLANUMS
a.Tomatoes
b.Egg plants
c.Irish potatoes
d.Peppers
e.Solanum nigrum
2.LEGUMES
a.Common peas
b.Peas
c.Ground nuts
d.Green and black grams
e.Cowpeas
f.Soya beans
g.Lab beans
h.Winged beans
i.Other lesser beans
3.GRAMINACEA
a.Maize
b.Sorghum
c.Sugar cane
d.Rice
e.Oats
f.Finger millet
g.Bulrush millet
h.Wheat
i.Barley
4.CHENOPODIUM
a.Spinach (S. Oleracea)
b.Beets (Beta Vulgaris)
c.Swiss chard
5.ALLIUMS
a.Onion (spring, bunch, bulbs)
b.Leeks
c.Garlic
d.Chives
6.UMBELLIFERAE (UMBELS OR PARSELY FAMILY)
a.Carrots
b.Several herbs
1.Coriander-coriandum sativum
2.Parseley-petroselinum srispum
3.Caraway-carum
4.Pimpinella-anise anisum
5.Foeniculum-fennel vulgare
6.Anetum graveoleus-dill
7.CUCURBITS
a.Cucurbita-Pumpkin, Squash, Gourds
b.Cucumis melo-Musk melon, Melous, Cantaloupe, Cucumbers and Water melons
Chayote (Sechilim edule)
BENEFICIALS:
The following are herbs and flowers that can be included into your garden to deter insects and strengthen soil. Some deter pests, while others attract helpful insects, or lure birds and pests away from the crops. Bees and butterflies play an important part in the life cycle of plants, so a garden will benefit if it includes their favorite meals. Bees love blue flowers, especially borage and rosemary. Butterflies are attracted to purple, red, yellow, and orange flowers and will beautify our garden as well.
Other beneficial insects are attracted to the flowers of parsley, dill and cilantro/coriander. Try letting a few of those plants go to seed to serve as feeding stations for helpful insects. The perennials are best planted at the end of the beds where they will not get in the way of double digging. Another good idea is to plant beneficials like lemon grass and marigolds around the borders of your garden.
Benefits of Beneficials:
Beneficials are usually flowers or herbs that give you a natural way to make your plants more resistant to insects and to make your garden look nice at the same time
Some beneficials attract “good” insects that eat the “bad” ones: predator vs. prey. Instead of killing all the insects with pesticides, these beneficials allow good insects to help your plants
Some beneficials attract insects to themselves, luring the potential pests away from crops
Finally, some beneficials deter pests away from the garden altogether
Common Beneficials:
Basil Companion to tomatoes dislikes rue intensely - improves growth and flavor. Repels flies and mosquitoes
Chives Companion to carrots; improves growth and flavor
Dill Companion to cabbage; dislikes carrots; improves growth and health of cabbage
Fennel Plant away from gardens - most plants dislike it
Garlic Deters beetles and birds
Hyssop Deters cabbage moth; companion to cabbage
Marigolds The workhorse of the pest deterrents - plant throughout garden - discourages many insects including beetles and nematodes
Mint Companion to cabbage, and tomatoes; improves health and flavor; deters white cabbage moth
Nasturtium Companion to radishes and cabbage - plant under fruit trees - deters aphids, squash bugs, stripped pumpkin beetle. Improves growth and flavor
Petunia Protects beans
Horseradish Plant at corners of potato patch to deter potato bug
Calendula Companion to tomatoes, but plant elsewhere in the garden too - deters asparagus beetle, tomato worm, and general garden pests
Rosemary Companion to tomatoes, cabbage, beans, carrots, and sage, but plant elsewhere in garden too - deters cabbage moth, bean beetles, asparagus beetles, and carrot fly
Sage Plant with rosemary, cabbage, and carrots; keep away from cucumbers deters cabbage moth, carrot fly
Tarragon Good throughout garden
Morning Glory Allow to grow in corn - mosquito repellant
Thyme: Plant here and there in the garden - deters cabbage worms
VI. RECORD KEEPING
-Daphne Jochnick
Basic garden records enable the gardener to:
organize flow of heavy giver, heavy feeder and light feeder crops
plan for companion planting and beneficials
know when to begin the nursery process to have seedlings ready to plant in beds in coordination with harvest schedules
chart insect and disease issues, what solution was applied, and how successfully
chart the balance of nutrition, income, and compost crops in the garden
track the dates of bed construction and dates and amounts of compost used, so as to know when to re-dig, and also how well crops do with different amounts of compost
If a garden is supplying for market, records enable the gardener to:
Chart the profitability of each crop
Plan a rotation schedule using different beds in order to consistently supply a marketed vegetable, tracking the crop’s harvest date in each bed so that one bed completes harvest when another is entering harvest
Coordinate with other farmers’ gardens: knowing when a particular crop will come to harvest in one garden, and planning for another garden to harvest that crop when the first garden is finishing
Below is a sketch of how we charted in the GSC demo-plot in Tengeru, Tanzania. Sample charts are also provided at the end of the ‘Compost’ and ‘Preparation of the Nurseries’ chapters.
CROP RECORDS FOR BED #_______
Date of Construction:
Size of Bed:
Dates and Amounts of Compost Added:
Up to 3 companion plants tracked in the bed:
Crop 1 Crop 2 Crop 3
Crops currently in garden, Next crop planned
Info. such as:
Chinese Cabbage, to be sold, July 11
AVAILABLE SEEDS:
NURSERY:
Broccoli to be transplanted July 11, to bed 18 Thyme,Beet,Been,Tomatoes and Chives to be transplanted July 25 Rosemary,Onion, Cabbage to be transplanted as needed
Hot Peppers July 11-plant around garden border, for pest solution
ACTIVITIES FOR NOW: Plant rosemary around garden. Plant Thyme in nusery Beef up plan with companion plants and beneficials,
Harvest Plans for beds 1, 3, 16?
Basic garden records enable the gardener to:
organize flow of heavy giver, heavy feeder and light feeder crops
plan for companion planting and beneficials
know when to begin the nursery process to have seedlings ready to plant in beds in coordination with harvest schedules
chart insect and disease issues, what solution was applied, and how successfully
chart the balance of nutrition, income, and compost crops in the garden
track the dates of bed construction and dates and amounts of compost used, so as to know when to re-dig, and also how well crops do with different amounts of compost
If a garden is supplying for market, records enable the gardener to:
Chart the profitability of each crop
Plan a rotation schedule using different beds in order to consistently supply a marketed vegetable, tracking the crop’s harvest date in each bed so that one bed completes harvest when another is entering harvest
Coordinate with other farmers’ gardens: knowing when a particular crop will come to harvest in one garden, and planning for another garden to harvest that crop when the first garden is finishing
Below is a sketch of how we charted in the GSC demo-plot in Tengeru, Tanzania. Sample charts are also provided at the end of the ‘Compost’ and ‘Preparation of the Nurseries’ chapters.
CROP RECORDS FOR BED #_______
Date of Construction:
Size of Bed:
Dates and Amounts of Compost Added:
Up to 3 companion plants tracked in the bed:
Crop 1 Crop 2 Crop 3
Crops currently in garden, Next crop planned
Info. such as:
Chinese Cabbage, to be sold, July 11
AVAILABLE SEEDS:
NURSERY:
Broccoli to be transplanted July 11, to bed 18 Thyme,Beet,Been,Tomatoes and Chives to be transplanted July 25 Rosemary,Onion, Cabbage to be transplanted as needed
Hot Peppers July 11-plant around garden border, for pest solution
ACTIVITIES FOR NOW: Plant rosemary around garden. Plant Thyme in nusery Beef up plan with companion plants and beneficials,
Harvest Plans for beds 1, 3, 16?
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