IX. TRANSPLANTING

Some plants, like carrots, beans and corn, go directly into the beds as seeds. Others, like leafy greens, tomatoes and onions, are best grown in stages, using nurseries. Seed packets will indicate whether to plant from seed or as a seedling.

The challenge for the gardener is to complete the planting and transplanting process without interrupting the plants growth. The goal is to stimulate growth, not slow it down. Proper timing, good bed preparation, and careful water application are critical factors affecting successful planting. The entire nursery process takes about 4-5 weeks.

Transplanting often takes two stages. When small seedlings in the primary nursery have produced two true leaves or are overcrowded they are transplanted to a secondary nursery, called being ‘pricked out’. The secondary nusery provides the seedlings with slightly more nutritious soil and increased space. (Sow seeds thickly in your primary nursery bed). When seedlings in the secondary nursery attain 3-5 true leaves, a fairly developed though shallow root system, and are usually 3-5 ˝ tall, they get their final transplant, into a garden bed.

Transplanting Your Seedlings:

1st Transplant:
Once seedlings attain two true leaves prick them out into the secondary nursery. The secondary nursery should be prepared with a proper soil mixture. Mark out where seedlings will be placed using a diagonal offset pattern and 2˝ spacing, then make small holes in which to place the roots. Carefully drop a trowel full of seedlings on the ground or working surface. Their soil mix should be fairly dry, allowing roots to easily separate. Handling the seedlings by their leaves, place them in new flats. Firm in gently and water lightly. Newly transplanted seedlings should remain out of direct sun and strong wind for 2-3 days. If materials for a secondary nursery are unavailable, seedlings can remain in the primary nursery until they are ready to be transplanted into the final bed. Don’t let the seedlings get too much water. Studies have shown that smaller plants have a higher survival rate. This is partially due to their limited surface area which reduces water loss. Their smaller roots are also less likely to be damaged

Final Transplant:
When the plant grows 5 true leaves, it can be transplanted to the final double-dug bed. However, before final transplanting, seedlings need to be hardened off, thus left without water for 2-3 days. When this is done, the seedlings will appear as if they are wilting and declining. About 2 hours before transplant­ing, water them. The gardener should choose those seedlings which have good root– leaf balance. Example: crowded conditions in a seed flat will result in long, spindly, “top heavy” seedlings with shallow, weak, and often interwoven roots. For a plant to undergo a healthy transplant, its roots must be able to provide adequately for top growth.

Transplanting is best done late in the evening or on a cool day. Prepare bed, laying down mulch if desired, and mark the location where seedlings are to be transplanted. See the lists in the ‘Companion Planting, Crop Rotation, and Beneficials’ chapter for common plants, their companions, and their spacing. A more comprehensive list is in Jeavons, How to Grow More Vegetables. The diagonal offset pattern is again used making the most efficient use of bed space and helping create an eventual living-mulch. Dig holes large enough to place seedlings up to their first true leaves. This is done for several reasons:
As the soil settles, the roots will remain covered
Members of the cabbage family as well as tomatoes form adventurous roots from their stems
It prevents seedlings from bending over
Press down firmly, but not too tightly, allowing for aeration, water penetration and nutrient uptake. Finish by giving the seedlings a gentle yet thorough watering, enough to settle the soil around the roots, eliminate excess air space, and provide an adequate amount of water for growth. Again, if one can provide the seedlings with some form of sun and wind protection for a few days, a more successful transplant will result.

To reduce transplant shock:

1)Expose roots to the air for shortest time possible
2)Carry soil with roots
3)Minimize handling of seedlings and handle them gently
4)Place seedlings into a more nutritious, moist flat/garden bed
5)Provide shade if necessary
6) “Harden off” the seedlings by reducing watering and introducing them to slightly harsher environmental conditions several days before transplanting
7)Transplant in the early evening, or on a cool, cloudy day, and avoid windy, very dry conditions

Water necessity:

Lack of water is a major cause of death to transplants.
Reasons new transplants can lack water:
Simply not enough water
Improper shading: seedling loses water faster than it can absorb it
No protection from wind
Soil ball, with good aeration and drainage, is placed into a garden bed lacking these qualities, resulting in poor absorption of water


Recommended Reading:
N. Bubel, The seed starter’s handbook
M. Rogers, Growing and sowing vegetable seeds
H. Rickett, Botany for gardeners
D. Patent and D. Bilderback, Garden Secrets
Hartmann, Kester, Plant Propagation, pp.190-193
Hartmann, Flocker, Kofranek, Plant Science, pp.417-418
Jeavons, How to grow more vegetables
Seymour, Self Sufficient Gardener